How to Hike the Queen Charlotte Track
Marlborough Sounds, Picton New Zealand
Water Taxi Seen from the trail heading to Endeavour Inlet
Distance: 10-71 km
Duration: 2-5 days
Difficulty: Easy/Moderate
Cost: $30-$500 NZD/Day
Access: Car-only trailhead or water taxi from Picton
Not one of the great walks of New Zealand, but it should be, the Queen Charlotte Track is a multi-day trek that winds through the stunning Marlborough Sounds.
Hiking the Queen Charlotte Track was my first big adventure in New Zealand and my first ever solo multi-day hike, so it will always hold a special place in my heart. I started all the way out at the end of the trail in Resolution Bay and trekked back inland.
The thing I remember most about the track was how beautiful and peaceful it is. Even during the summer season, the end of the track is practically empty. It’s just you, the birds, and the views.
The thing I remember second most was the cheeky Weka who had the nerve to approach me, jump up on the picnic table and stare at me eye-to-eye and then steal my peanut M&Ms OUT OF MY PACK. (I got them back) lol never forget.
What is the Queen Charlotte Track?
The Queen Charlotte Track is a multi-day hike along the shoreline of Marlborough Sounds. It extends from Anakiwa (about 30 minutes from Picton) all the way out to Ship’s Cove. It is an easy to moderate trail that’s generally wide and not too steep. It’s like Abel Tasman Trail without the crowds and with equally stunning views of the water and the Marlborough Sounds.
One of the intersections on the Queen Charlotte Track
Why Hike the Queen Charlotte Track
It’s Not as Crowded as the NZ Great Walks
During the peak of summer especially, the NZ great walks get REALLY crowded. Because it’s not as popular, the Queen Charlotte Track isn’t so busy and the further out on the trail you get, the fewer people you’re going to meet!
It’s a Good Beginner Hiking Trail
Unlike many of the NZ treks that require significant fitness and experience to hike safely, the Queen Charlotte track is great for beginners to the outdoors.
It’s Very Safe
While New Zealand is one of the safest countries in the world, most of the casualties happen in the outdoors - to people who go past their limits. The Queen Charlotte Track is one you have to work hard to mess up on. The trail is wide and well-marked and if you don’t jump off the edge, there are limited hazards. Plus, there are hotels every few kilometers, which means that help is never far away. 10/10 recommend this hike for solo hikers-especially beginner solo hikers!
There are Countless Places to Swim
The trail follows the edge of the water, so there are plenty of opportunities to jump in and take advantage of the sunny weather!
The Views
I know pretty much all of NZ is beautiful, but it’s still worth mentioning, isn’t it?
Why NOT to:
If you’re an experienced hiker looking for a challenge, this is not the trail for you. Also if you are on a very tight budget you may want to look elsewhere (unless you have a car and camping supplies handy)
How to Get to The Queen Charlotte Track
There are 2 ways to access the trail:
Drive your Car to the Trailhead
About 30 minutes outside of Picton the Track starts at Anakiwa. There is road access to the path at Anakiwa, Te Mahia Saddle, Mistletoe Bay, Torea Saddle and Bay and Kenepuru Saddle. You can start from any of these points.
If you take this option, you will likely also need to cross part of the track on private land between Kenepuru Saddle and Davies Bay near Anakiwa (if you want to get to the good part at least) To do this you’ll need a Queen Charlotte Track Land Cooperative (Q.C.T.L.C.) Pass.
Take a Water Taxi
This is the most popular way to access the trail, as well as the most flexible. Water taxis leave regularly from Picton year-round and stop at all the main hotels. If you can’t carry a lot or weight, or just don’t want to, you can also have the water taxi transport your luggage daily to your next hotel.
I took the cougarline water taxi which now runs at $105 NZD round trip. I can definitely recommend them- they were very accommodating when I had to change my travel plans last minute due to an incoming hurricane.
Views of the Marlborough Sounds from the water taxi
How to Hike the Queen Charlotte Track
The entire Queen Charlotte Track takes 5 days. 10 days if you go both ways or fewer if you want to power through- though this isn’t a power-through-it kind of trail. Most people take 2-4 days depending on their time and budget and choose the part of the track they want to see the most.
As I said before, part of the track crosses private land between Kenepuru Saddle and Davies Bay near Anakiwa. To cross this part you’ll need a Queen Charlotte Track Land Cooperative (Q.C.T.L.C.) Pass.
Step 1: Choose which parts of the track you want to see
Step 2: Decide where you want to start & end
Step 3: Confirm you’ll have transportation and a place to sleep
Step 4: Get trekking!
My itinerary:
Day 1:
Water taxi to Resolution Bay cabins. Dropped a few kilos from my pack. Trekked out to Ship Cove and enjoyed a private lunch with only a Weka and oystercatchers for company. Trekked back to Resolution Bay.
Took a (very) cold snorkel and saw incredible sea life right by the shore. Borrowed a kayak and paddled around the bay at sunset. Spotted a pair of King Shags (you can only find them in the Marlborough Sounds!). Sat on the edge of the dock and watched the last light disappear. Marveled at the crystal clear skies and millions of stars right from the porch on my cabin.
Day 2:
Enjoyed sunrise at the shore of Resolution Bay. Had a camp brekkie. Packed up and hiked to Furneaux Lodge. Checked into the semi-affordable backpacker cabins. Had a relaxing lunch of chips. Explored the shoreline and found lots more marine life.
Made my own dinner on the mini camp stove (dinner at the lodge was the same price as my room for the night). Splurged on a chocolate dessert that was expensive AF ($16 NZD) but quite possibly the best chocolate I’ve had. Like, Ever.
Went out for golden hour and sunset and had a wonderful evening taking pictures of oystercatchers on the shore and getting completely soaked in the process. Stayed out for another epic sunset. Got word of a hurricane coming in and had to cancel my plans for the next day.
Day 3: (planned)
Hike out to Punga Cove and spend the afternoon enjoying it. Take a water taxi back to Picton at 3 pm.
Day 3: (Reality)
Woke up to torrential rain. Couldn’t cook so had a granola bar for brekkie. Got soaked on the 2-minute walk to the dock to pick up the water taxi. Ended up back in Picton and took advantage of the rain to watch Black Panther at the tiny town theater in the back of the aquarium. The Seats were recliners and bean bag chairs. Totally recommend.
The hurricane that sent me home. I was most worried about mudslides taking out the trail!
Where to Stay on the Queen Charlotte Track
If you’re hiking the Queen Charlotte Track you have 2 (very different) options for Accommodation: Camping and Luxury.
CAMPING
Price: $6-10 NZD/night per person
If you’re camping you’ll need all the gear: tent, sleeping pad, sleeping bag, cook stove. The campsites have toilets and running water but no stoves or rubbish bins.
Campsites:
SCHOOLHOUSE BAY
Located in: Resolution Bay Cooking Shelter: No Tent sites: 15 Price per night:$6 NZD
CAMP BAY
Located in: Endeavor Inlet Cooking Shelter: Yes Tent sites: 20 Price per night:$8 NZD
BAY OF MANY COVES
Located in: Bay of Many Coves Cooking Shelter: Yes Tent sites: 10 Price per night:$6 NZD
BLACK ROCK
Located in: Kumutoto Bay Cooking Shelter: Yes Tent sites: 10 Price per night:$6 NZD
COWSHED BAY
Located in: Torea Bay Cooking Shelter: Yes Tent sites: 30 Price per night:$13 NZD
UMUNGATA (DAVIES BAY)
Located in: Grove Arm Cooking Shelter: Yes Tent sites: 25 Price per night:$6 NZD
Best Hotels, Hostels & Homestays on the Queen Charlotte Track
These are my top BACKPACKER recommendations. For those of us that can’t (or don’t want to) swing $300 a night for a bed. For a full list including all the luxury options, click here.
Resolution Bay Cabins
(+64 3-579 9411) No website-they’re off the grid!!
Location: Resolution Bay
Budget option: $40 NZD/night - as of 2018
Luxury option: Not available
My rating: 10/10 for the secluded natural paradise
Located near the end of the Queen Charlotte Track in Resolution Bay, these humble cabins boast a private beach and dock with boats available to explore this tranquil paradise. The cabins are small and simple but comfortable. There are bathrooms and showers on site. There is a kitchen with power and gas cooking stoves and a large indoor eating area.
Furneaux Lodge
Location: Endeavour Inlet
Budget Option: $50-75 NZD/night (depending on Season)
Luxury Option: $220-$390 NZD/night (depending on Season)
My rating: 8/10 beautiful location but not ideal for backpackers as all food & activities are very expensive
Located at the end of Endeavor Inlet and accessible only by foot or boat, Furneaux Lodge is a secluded luxury Paradise with beautiful grounds and a wonderful expansive waterfront. Some affordable(ish) lunch options are available at the restaurant. Dinner is a luxury event in a gorgeous restaurant with delicious food and a price tag to match.
My budget recommendation: Cook a backpacker dinner in your cabin and then go enjoy dessert and/or a drink at the restaurant!
Punga Cove
Location: Endeavour Inlet, Camp Bay
Budget Option: $75-$95 NZD/night 1 person or $100-$155 NZD/night 2 people (Seasonal)
Luxury Option: $180-$390 NZD/night (depending on Season)
Located right next to Camp Bay, Punga Cove is an awesome blend of adventure and luxury.
Lochmara Lodge
Location: Lochmara Bay
Budget Option: $100-$125 NZD/night for 2 people (depending on season)
Luxury Option: $280-350 NZD/night (depending on the season)
While Lochmara Lodge is on the high end for backpackers, it offers some unique and awesome features you won’t find elsewhere on the Queen Charlotte Track. The nature-loving lodge sports a wildlife recovery center, arts center, an underwater observatory and even a glow-worm grotto!
Mistletoe Bay EcoVillage
Location: Onahau Bay
Budget Option: $140 NZD/night for 2 people $160-$190 NZD/night 6 people
Campsite: $18 NZD/night per person
Luxury Option: Not Available
Miners Farmstay
Location: Endeavour Inlet
Budget Option: $99-$120 NZD/night 2 people $140-$155 NZD/night for 4 people
Campsite: $15 NZD/night per person
Luxury Option: Not available
Water’s edge views from my evening kayak at Resolution Bay Cabins
Recommended Itineraries Queen Charlotte Track:
Budget Backpacker with No Extra Time
LENGTH: 2 days/1 night
START: Ship Cove
END: Furneaux Lodge
ACCOMMODATION: Resolution Bay Cabins or DOC Campsite Schoolhouse Bay
DOC Pass Needed: NO
Day 1: Take the morning water taxi out of Picton to Ship Cove-or Resolution Bay if you want to drop your gear. Hike to/ Explore Ship Cove and take a dip or have a snack. Hike back to Resolution Bay (4.5 km/ 2hr) and swim, kayak and enjoy the peace. Cook a camp dinner and stay up watching the stars
Day 2: Enjoy a peaceful morning (I recommend getting up for sunrise) and then pack up and hike to furneaux lodge / the head of endeavour inlet (10.5km/3hr) and take the afternoon water taxi back to Picton
**I like this itinerary for budget backpackers because you do NOT need any camping gear but you don’t have to empty your wallet for a bed either!
***Note: if you’re a fast hiker and pressed for time you can drive/bus into Picton early morning on day 1 and drive/bus out of Picton on day 2***
For the Trail Lovers Who Like a bit of Luxury
LENGTH: 2 days/1 night OR 3 Days/2 nights
START: Ship Cove
END: Camp Bay/Punga Cove
ACCOMMODATION: Furneaux Lodge, Punga Cove Resort
DOC Pass Needed: NO
Day 1: Take the morning water taxi to Ship Cove (have them drop your bags at Furneaux Lodge) and after a wander around hike back to Furneaux Lodge enjoying the stunning scenery (14.5km/5 hr). Relax at the lodge and enjoy as much luxury as you’d like in this secluded paradise
Day 2A: Enjoy breakfast at the lodge and then hike through Endeavour Inlet to Camp Bay/Punga Cove Resort (11.5km /4 hr) enjoy the afternoon and take the last water taxi of the day back to Picton
Day 2B: Enjoy breakfast at the lodge and then hike through Endeavour Inlet to Punga Cove Resort (11.5km /4 hr) enjoy the afternoon and another Beautiful evening on the Marlborough Sounds.
Day 3: Wake up and take a morning paddle. Enjoy a wonderful brekkie and take a water taxi back to Picton at your luxury
The Backpacker with Time and a Tent
LENGTH: 3 days/2 nights OR 4 days/3 nights
START: Ship Cove
END: Camp Bay
ACCOMMODATION: Schoolhouse Bay, Miners Farmstay, Camp Bay
DOC Pass needed: NO
Day 1: Take the water taxi to Ship Cove. Enjoy the beautiful scenery and take a dip. Hike to Schoolhouse bay campsite (4.5km/2hr) and enjoy a quiet evening with the stars.
Day 2: Enjoy a peaceful morning. Hike to the Miner’s Farmstay (10.5km/3hr) and set up your tent. Spend the afternoon exploring the area and splurge on camp dinner.
Day 3A: Wake up to the sound of birdsong. Hike to Camp Bay and Catch the water taxi back to Picton
Day 3B: Wake up to the sound of birdsong. Hike to Camp Bay and pitch your tent for one more night on the beautiful sound
Day 4: Wake up and take a swim in the sound. Catch the water taxi back to Picton
***These recommended itineraries are based on my experience at the far end of the track. Other itineraries past Endeavour inlet may be WONDERFUL but I can’t recommend them based on my own experience***
Sunrise at Resolution Bay- this is why I say it’s worth it to wake up early!!
How much The Queen Charlotte Track Really Costs
I’m going to be honest: Between water taxis, Luxury Resorts, and mouth-watering restaurants, you could easily spend $1000 NZD or more for a few days on the track.
BUT
If you want to do this gorgeous track on a budget you ABSOLUTELY can.
My Budget (2018) 3 days, 2 nights:
Return Water Taxi: $105 NZD
Resolution Bay Cabins: $40 NZD
Furneaux Lodge Backpacker bunk: $40 NZD
Chips at Furneaux Lodge: $9 NZD
Chocolate Dessert of my dreams: $16 NZD
Trail food: $20 NZD
Total: $230 NZD
If you’ve got a tent sleeping bag and can resist the temptation to buy any food at the resorts, you can do this even cheaper!
The oystercatchers were my only Sunset company at Furneaux Lodge
Gear You Need for the Queen Charlotte Track
IN YOUR DAYPACK
I love this thing. It keeps your water cold All. Day. Long.
My favourite trail snack. You’re welcome.
And my favorite Trail ‘Meals’ from MacPac: Potatoes & Eggs
Lasts forever & is waterproof up to 1m. There’s also a Budget option
Trail Map
Extra Layer
Yes I’m gonna suggest Merino Wool. It’s the best. I have two I love - One from Mons Royale and the other from Ibex. Both are out of production though :(
The BEST mineral sunscreen I've found! (Non-toxic & Reef Safe!)
This natural stuff is my favorite for everyday use! But if you're walking in tick territory
(when it rains, it pours)
Probably one of the most useful things I own. And Victorinox makes the best.
My favorite Bandanas! Plus, they pull a pound of trash for each purchase
Hand Sanitizer
My Emergency blanket is from MacPac, but this one is the best rated on Amazon!
Microfiber Towel
OVERNIGHT BACKPACKER
Sleeping bag
Sleeping Pad
Camp Bowl
Tent
If you need to grab gear before your trek, Check out MacPac in Nelson!
My favorite (lightweight) Backpacking Bag
For up-to-date trail status and other info, visit the DOC Website. Or check out the brochure
You can pick up a trail map at the Picton I-site office.
Have any questions about hiking this beautiful New Zealand trail? Comment below!
The private dock and stunning waters of Resolution Bay
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